Head to… Dominica, the Authentic Island

Located between Guadeloupe and Martinique, Dominica boasts many assets: varied and pristine underwater landscapes, a magnificent tropical forest, abundant rivers and waterfalls… This small volcanic island, which has retained the charm of the Caribbean, remains untouched by mass tourism.

Located between Guadeloupe and Martinique, Dominica boasts many assets: varied and pristine underwater sites, a superb rainforest, rivers, and waterfalls galore… This small volcanic island, which has retained the charm of the Caribbean, is still spared from mass tourism.

Photo above: spotted moray eel (Gymnothorax moringa). © Dominique Barray

Diving and snorkeling in small groups and in complete tranquility

Departing from Portsmouth (in the north of the island) the Cabrits Dive Center – managed by the friendly and efficient French, Virginie and Rémi Granger – lets you enjoy the underwater treasures around Cabrits National Park: dives with drop-offs and caves in clear and calm water.

Atmosphere Cabrits National Park
Atmosphere in Cabrits National Park. © Dominique Barray

On the Champagnesite, fumaroles and hot springs continuously release strings of small gas bubbles that rise to the surface. If you can, also do this night dive, you’ll be surprised by the change in scenery and the presence of a completely different fauna.

Also dive at Scotts Head Drop-Off, a beautiful drop-off covered with numerous large-sized corals and colorful sponges. The fauna is abundant and varied (moray eels, barracudas, jacks…) with the inevitable presence of the lionfish.

Less frequented (everything is relative!) than the sites around Roseau, the Salisbury sites offer, at shallow depth and less than 15 minutes by boat, abundant wildlife and remarkable fixed life with also gorgonians, sponges, and corals in profusion.

Most dive centers organize « snorkeling » outings. Many sites are accessible from the shore, allowing you to quietly enjoy the crystal-clear waters and a preserved fauna and flora.

Half Air Half Water Cabrits National Park
Half-air, half-water in the Cabrits National Park. © Dominique Barray

Dominica is also the best place in the Caribbean to observe sperm whales, one of the only places in the world where they are resident. The humpback whales are also visible between November and March, a period when they give birth.

On land, the « Caribbean » atmosphere of the 1950s

No large hotel complexes, nor mega-airport, a population of barely 80,000 inhabitants… The atmosphere is different from neighboring islands. Dominica is made up of national parks, nature is omnipresent and its inhabitants, open and friendly, add to the charm of the island.

Canyoning is a must on the island, with no fewer than 365 rivers and a beautiful volcanic landscape. Swim, walk, jump, rappel down into clear water basins, all in the middle of a lush nature inaccessible otherwise.

Another activity to enjoy out of the water is hiking. Accessible from beginner to seasoned hiker, the 3000 trails lead you from waterfalls to natural spas and from hot springs to spectacular views of the national park’s summits (a good pair of shoes is recommended).

In practice

  • Formalities: for French nationals, a passport is required.
  • To get there: the French company Air Caraïbes offers a « navigAIR » package which includes the round-trip plane ticket Orly – Pointe à Pitre, transfer to the maritime terminal and the 2-hour crossing to Dominica by boat (round-trip).
  • Time difference: -6h in summer and -5h in winter
  • Currency: East Caribbean dollar (1 € = 3.2 EC$)
  • Water temperature between 24°C and 28°C
  • Best season for diving: year-round (dry season from March to June)
  • Equipment: 3 to 5 mm wetsuit depending on the dive sites
  • Immersions accessible to divers of all levels.
  • Dominica’s Tourist Office

Atmosphere Cabrits National Park D3166
Caribbean colors in Cabrits National Park. © Dominique Barray

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