In 2019, the adventure began with a phone call. Olivier Mely, a friend and organizer of diving trips through his agency, proposed an exceptional plan to me: swim with orcas in Norway! A close friend, convinced by a similar experience a few months earlier, wanted to return in November. The operator, a passionate Frenchman, promised a unique stay in an amazing place. The idea immediately captivated me. Heading to Norway in November!
Preparations and arrival in Seglvik
After a long journey, I set down my bags in Seglvik, a charming village located about 400 km north of the Arctic Circle. The water was at a temperature of 6 °C, and the polar night was approaching, synonymous with sunless days. A shiver ran through me, almost making me regret not going to Mexico… I quickly befriended the rest of the group, made up of globe-trotters and photographers, some of whom had already experienced diving with orcas in Norway. I enjoyed their stories and advice.
Julie, Rodolphe, and their team at Valhalla Expedition gave us a warm welcome. The accommodation was simple, in small comfortable shacks. The next day, a 10 mm thick wetsuit awaited me. It took ten minutes of fierce struggle to put it on! A fladen, an essential over-suit against the cold and wind on the boat, was also provided to me. It proved essential, as I spent on average 6 hours a day on the boat, braving the elements. The meeting was set for the following morning, on the dock. The spectacle of the winter fjord was striking: snow-covered mountains down to the shore, deep black sea, and a low sun.
An unforgettable encounter
On the first outing, the guide invited me to get into the water. Initially, visibility was limited. Then, a stretched arm indicated to look behind me. I glanced beneath the surface and there, a gigantic male orca appeared, swimming just a few meters away. A colossus over six meters long and several tons! Our eyes met. Time stood still. This visual exchange, this silent connection, made me feel alone in the world with this majestic creature.
Each day was an opportunity to observe the orcas, sometimes even from my window. Their freedom deeply moved me, contrasting with the fate of their captive counterparts in amusement parks. Respect for animal welfare was the watchword of this expedition.
Our guides scrupulously ensured never to chase the orcas and to limit the number of boats around them. The entries into the water were made in the greatest silence. Clear instructions were given: do not approach directly and above all, do not stay above the shoals of herring. I would soon understand why.
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