The mention of the Marquesas, this archipelago located more than 3 hours and 30 minutes flight north of Tahiti, is still rare among divers. However, since 2018, a dive center has opened its doors on the island of Hiva Oa and offers to let you discover the unsuspected wonders of the Marquesas seabed.
Land of volcanic origin, the Marquesas islands alternate between arid mountains with jagged crests and lush valleys. Large bays and tiny coves cut into the coast, and waves crash against steep cliffs.
Unlike the other archipelagos of French Polynesia, the Marquesas islands do not have a lagoon. Here, no pass: the open ocean is in direct contact with the volcanic shoreline. From the sight of the land relief, it is easy to imagine what’s waiting for you underwater: pinnacles, shoals, drop-offs, and caves enliven the landscape. Dives around the islands of Hiva Oa and Tahuata are not subject to tide currents. In fact, there is usually little current.
Omnipresent manta rays
The Hanakee site, near the motu of Atuona Bay, is a cleaning station for manta rays, which are very frequent in the Marquesas. You can sometimes encounter up to twenty of them! Keep an eye out in the blue, as pelagics lead the dance like jacks and dogtooth tunas, if not a hammerhead shark prowling. Macro enthusiasts can also enjoy a variety of shrimps, nudibranchs, moray eels in cleaning sessions…
The Pihau site, which means « plane » in Marquesan, owes its name to the specific shape of an overhanging surface rock. It is distinguished by the presence of an arch frequented by a school of perch and some archaeological remains: carved volcanic stones that the ancients used as anchors. The dives are very fish-rich: blue-striped perch, black triggerfish, mackerel scad, and jacks. All these beautiful creatures bustle and cross in a choreography that is anything but orderly. While the endemic anthias schools of the Marquesas navigate between shoals and rock pinnacles, manta rays are never far in these volcanically-originated settings.
The bottomless cave at Tahuata
Day trips are organized on the island of Tahuata, an hour’s crossing from Hiva Oa. It is not uncommon to encounter long-beaked dolphins on the way, or even a humpback whale and its calf depending on the season. Dives around Tahuata allow the observation of many scattered fish on the coral plateau, notably several species of small endemics. The larger species are rather discreet, except for the manta rays.
South of Tahuata, the Haatemiei site features a very beautiful cave, nicknamed the bottomless cave, in which marbled rays are often found and can exceed a meter in wingspan. The entrance is at a depth of 20 meters and a second, narrower cave is nearby. Back on the drop-off, you may encounter curious but rather shy gray sharks, a school of barracudas, a few barracudas, and longnose surgeonfish. In the blue, some tunas and fusiliers patrol without caring for the divers.
Excerpt from the Vincent Truchet report on the Marquesas to be found in the issue 23 of Plongez! magazine
They make you dive: Marquises Diving