Consideredéré as o’ne of the most beautiful in the world, the bay of the Saintes is well worth its reéputation. Out of the’ water, a festival of colors unfolds, in aé parade ofé shadesé of ultramarine green, lagoon blue, and blazing red. Beneath the’ water, the spectacle is the same : a surprising cocktail of angelfish in multicolored gowns, sea fans, corals, sponges, and fish of all kindsétés.Imagine a sumptuous bay with crystal-clear water framed by two sparkling green rock peaks. Nestled in this perfectly proportioned setting, small white houses with red roofs enhance its brilliance. On either side of the island, numerous coves nestle into the landscape bordered by tall coconut trees. Hills dot the sculpture: the terrain is hilly, changing, crisscrossed with white sand beaches.
Like in Rio de Janeiro, a Sugarloaf Mountain dominates the entrance of the bay. This basalt ball, about fifty meters in diameter, is colonized by torch cacti, and in winter, tropicbirds, or ‘white-tailed tropicbirds,’ come to nest there. Like in Rio again, where Corcovado, ‘the Christ Redeemer,’ spreads its arms as if to protect the city it overlooks, a cross tops the charming village of Terre-de-Haut and its dollhouse-like homes with pastel-colored shutters.
So blue, so welcoming, the water catches the eye. And, inevitably, the desire to fling oneself into this azure ocean arises. The spots are located on rocky landslides, caves, and reefs, all teeming with fish.
The pinnacles of Sec Pâté
Recognized as the most beautiful dive in the Caribbean, taking place in the middle of the Saintes Channel, halfway between the Saintes and Basse-Terre, the immersion into the Sec Pâté is deserved. It is only accessible under favorable weather conditions, recommended from at least level II with experience. Three rocky pinnacles emerge from 300 meters deep and rise to tickle the surface, 14 meters below the boat’s hull. Clubs from Basse-Terre venture there on certain days, just like those from the Saintes.
Angelfish, abundant sea fans, sponges of all shapes and sizes, cracks… Relief and fish offer a spiral hike around the pinnacles. It is the kingdom of pelagic species: barracudas, oceanic triggerfish, mackerels, jacks, dorados. And of course, turtles also reign there. With generally excellent visibility, the spectacle is as much on the walls as around the pinnacles. And the vertiginous drop-off fades into depths – a bit too – alluring…
4 other sites à not to miss
> Pointe CabritSite located on the southwest coast of the islet Cabrit, which the locals of Saintes call ‘Devil’s Hole’. Ideal for both beginners and experienced divers. Two possible directions. A drop-off to the north that descends to 20 m, with forests of sea fans and some barrel sponges (Xestopongia muta). The walls are lined with Creole wrasse (Clepticus parrae) and brown chromis (Chromis sp.). To the south, a sandy bottom scattered with garden eels (Heteroconger hallis). An interesting coral bump at 7 m is colonized by large scorpionfish. The return in 3 m of water is sublime, among schools of anchovies (Anchoa lyolepis, longnose anchovies) that stand out in the light. A pleasure hard to leave.
> Pointe du GouvernailLocated south of Terre-de-Bas, one of the easiest dives. Drop-off on the left, return on the right. Many barrel sponges and sea fans, in a very fishy universe: French angelfish (Pomacanthus paru), bluehead angelfish (Pomacanthus xanthometopon), spotted drums (Equetus punctatus). And about twenty barracudas on a seagrass bed. Schools of Creole wrasse, blue tangs (Acanthurus coeruleus). Groupers and lobsters hide in the large blocks at the top of the drop-off.
Rock of the Virgin
Belonging to the Augstins group, a rock resembling a Madonna holding her child was broken during the earthquake of November 21, 2004. The site is practicable year-round except during heavy swell. Canyons, arches, crevices, and faults succeed one another in a tortuous path. A superb light illuminates this spot carpeted with sea fans.> The AugstinsLocated south of Terre-de-Haut, the Augstins block forms a steep rock band about a hundred meters long. A drop-off that descends gently (15 m max) and a seagrass area where purple/white seahorses evolve. Lobsters, porcupinefish, red sunfish, blackbar soldierfish (Myripristis jacobus), copper sweepers (Pempheris schomburgki), ), grunts (Haemulon sp.), ), groupers, and soapfish (Rypticus saponaceus) are present. Abundant corals and sea fans.
Theê head out of the’eau
A visit to Fort Napoleon is a must, for its breathtaking view over the bay, and for its museum. You must also absolutely visit Terre-de-Bas, where the local shuttle drops you off at different times of the day. The place is infrequently visited and the tour of the island is worth the detour. Beautiful beach at Grande Anse. Hiking trails not to neglect. On Terre-de-Haut, go up to the calvary in the evening to admire the sun’s reflections on the bay. Climb to the Chameau for the view, then relax on the very beautiful Sugarloaf beach.
Guadeloupe Islands Tourism Committee: www.lesilesdeguadeloupe.com
