The Florida Keys: Dive into the Footsteps of Ernest Hemingway

Text and photos: Nicolas Barraqué

Let yourself be charmed by the Keys, an archipelago of over 1700 islands and islets stretching 190 km south of Florida, between the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico. Only about thirty of these islands are inhabited, offering a unique blend of wild nature and island charm. Just an hour’s drive south of Miami via the famous Overseas Highway, the Keys reveal exceptional diving spots, worthy of Ernest Hemingway’s novels.

The Archipelago of the Keys: A Division in Three Parts

To better understand this insular group, the Keys are traditionally divided into three distinct zones:

• The Upper Keys: The islands closest to the mainland, including Key Largo and Islamorada.
• The Middle Keys: Located at the center of the archipelago, with Marathon and Pigeon Key.
• The Lower Keys: The farthest islands, where Bahia Honda and Key West are located.

An Exceptional Marine Ecosystem

The Keys are home to the only continental coral barrier of the United States. These shallow reefs are teeming with a diverse tropical fauna, with over six hundred species of fish (snappers, angelfish, nurse sharks…) and a wealth of gorgonians, sponges, and corals.

Protecting the Marine Environment: A Major Challenge

The protection of this unique environment is a priority. After an unsuccessful attempt in the 1930s, awareness campaigns launched in the 1950s led to collective awareness. In 1960, President Eisenhower created the Key Largo Coral Reef Reserve. In 1963, it became the John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, in honor of a passionate defender of the marine environment. Other sanctuaries followed, such as the Key Largo National Marine Sanctuary (1975) and Looe Key (1981). On November 16, 1990, President George H. W. Bush enacted the bill establishing the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary, thus protecting approximately 5,300 km² of marine territory.

The Wreck Trek: A Paradise for Divers

Beyond the beauty of the reefs, the Keys are renowned for their « wreck trek. » Among the most famous are the USS Vanderberg (160 meters long) near Key West, the USS Thunderbolt accessible from Marathon, and the USS Spiegel Grove off Key Largo. It is estimated that over 1000 wrecks lie on the ocean floor, victims of inaccurate charts, strong currents, human errors, or storms. Some, like the City of Washington or the Benwood, are buried under sand or corals. Others, more recent, have been deliberately submerged to create artificial reefs, like the USS Vanderberg in 2009.

Most sites are several miles from the shores and are accessible only by boat. « Double tank » dives are common, with an hour interval between each dive. Autonomy is essential, in compliance with the safety rules.

Christ of the Abyss: An Iconic Site

Although not a wreck, the Christ of the Abyss, installed in 1965, is a must-see diving site. This 2.55m-high bronze statue, created by Italian sculptor Guido Galletti, rests on a concrete base at just 7 meters deep near the Dry Rocks reef. A copy of the statue located off the coast of Genoa, Italy, it was donated by Egidi Cressi, the diving equipment manufacturer. Its shallow depth makes it accessible to both divers and snorkelers, and it has become a popular spot for underwater weddings.

Focus on Some Legendary Wrecks

SS City of Washington