The Tuamotu Islands, Kingdom of Sharks

Large lagoons surrounded by coral reefs and open to the ocean through channels that are real highways for marine life, that’s what the Tuamotus evoke in the mind of every diver. The Tuamotu Islands offer travelers a true tropical paradise. With their shimmering turquoise lagoons, white or pink sand beaches, and coral reefs, these islands […]

Large lagoons surrounded by coral reefs and open to the ocean through channels that are real highways for marine life, that’s what the Tuamotus evoke in the mind of every diver.

Half-air half-water from the village of Tetamau, Southern Fakarava.© Philippe Joachim

The Tuamotu Islands offer travelers a true tropical paradise. With their shimmering turquoise lagoons, white or pink sand beaches, and coral reefs, these islands captivate and amaze. With over twenty species of sharks observable in its waters, French Polynesia is home to the world’s largest shark sanctuary, demonstrating its commitment to the conservation of these fascinating predators. The mythical passes of the Tuamotus thus welcome schools of sharks, but also manta rays, dolphins, barracudas, turtles, eagle rays… Discover diving at Rangiroa, Fakarava, Tikehau and Mahini!

Fakarava diving between two passes

The atoll constitutes a remarkably preserved environment that has been officially designated a biosphere reserve by UNESCO. Spanning the entire Fakarava atoll and several others nearby, this biosphere reserve is home to an incredible diversity of marine species. More than a thousand species of fish, rays, and sharks have taken up residence in what constitutes a real underwater sanctuary.

Dozens or even hundreds of gray sharks can be observed in Fakarava. © Vincent Truchet

The southern pass of Fakarava is the only pass where a real coral reef is found. This is mainly due to the presence of the gigantic northern pass, the Garuae pass. The two are very far apart. The Garuae pass is the largest in Polynesia, at 1,600 meters wide. It is subject to very strong currents and absorbs the power of the tides, so let the incoming current carry you to the lagoon. You dive on its walls adorned with beautiful hard and soft corals and hosting parrotfish, turtles, clownfish, triggerfish, jacks while in the blue, you may spot barracudas or dogtooth tunas. On the other hand, the southern pass of Tumakohua is narrow (200 meters wide), small and the current is more moderate! This pass is renowned for hosting the highest density of gray sharks (Carcharhinus amblyrhynchos) called raira in Polynesia. They form real walls during the day when they rest, offering an extraordinary spectacle accessible to all levels of diving. It is also the gathering place for thousands of groupers during their annual reproduction, between June and July. It also boasts beautiful coral roses (Montipora sp.) and numerous species can be seen there, including damselfish, surgeonfish, jacks as well as whitetip and blacktip reef sharks.

Rangiroa, territory of the giant mokarran

Rangiroa is the largest atoll in French Polynesia. Beyond its postcard-perfect landscapes with white sand and turquoise waters, it is one of the must-see diving spots for all nature and ocean lovers.

The great hammerhead shark (Sphyrna mokarran). © Vincent Truchet

Just like in Fakarava, the dives mainly take place in the two passes of Rangiroa, the Tiputa and Avatoru passes. Letting yourself be carried by the currents, they offer you vibrant scenes and a breathtaking spectacle, in crystal-clear waters. The Tiputa pass is THE favorite site of a must-see species in these waters: the great hammerhead shark (Sphyrna mokarran), the largest ever observed reaching 6 meters long! A solitary hunter, it is not easy to spot but Rangiroa is without a doubt the best spot for it! At the bottom of the Tiputa pass, at 50 meters deep, they mokarran delight in their favorite prey: leopard rays. The pass will also offer a lively spectacle with the passage of dolphins, turtles, schools of hundreds of barracudas, napoleons, manta rays… The Avatoru pass will delight you with clouds of tropical fish and gray sharks, raira, whitetip reef sharks, tapete and stingrays, fa’i are also regulars of this pass. The calm and clear waters of the lagoon also allow divers seeking tranquility, beginners and snorkelers to enjoy themselves with dives on coral gardens where you will encounter turtles, whitetip reef sharks resting on the sand and a variety of tropical fish.

Tikehau, the fishiest lagoon of Tahiti and its islands

Tikehau is an atoll located west of Rangiroa and is made up of many motu (islets) with undeniable charm both on land, with its pink sand and many birds, and underwater… Commander Cousteau said that Tikehau’s lagoon was the fishiest of Tahiti and its islands.

A yellowfin surgeonfish poses in front of a school of Heller’s barracudas. © Vincent Truchet

Head to the only pass of Tikehau, Tuheiava, for a grand spectacle! Shallow, it is accessible to everyone. You will see schools of bigeye jacks, Javanese moray eels, sharks, surgeonfish, angelfish and napoleons… In the blue near the drop-offs, you will see barracudas, an immense school of thousands of Heller’s barracudas as well as dogtooth tunas. In the lagoon, manta rays come to be cleaned at a cleaning station accessible to all levels. Around the pass, on the reef, you will encounter lionfish, turtles, leaf fish, stonefish, and millions of small reef fish, in crystal-clear water.

Mahini, pearl of the Tuamotus

The waters of Manihi constitute an incredible place to discover. Indeed, they have the perfect temperature, brightness, density and salinity to grow one of the most precious treasures of French Polynesia: the black pearl.

Encounter with a majestic manta. © Philippe Joachim

The unique pass of Mahini, the Turipaoa pass, hosts majestic manta rays and, like in Fakarava, it is the chosen site for thousands of groupers to reproduce between June and July and thus also a passageway for many gray sharks. The mantas are at home here and perform a magnificent underwater ballet also at the Cirque site, accompanied by eagle rays. This site, rich in nutrients, offers less visibility but attracts many species that come to feast. A beautiful drop-off completes this scene with the full range of usual tropical fauna. Don’t miss an encounter with turtles on the top of the reef.

opening image © Vincent Truchet

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