A fascinating study on the Haenyeo, these South Korean grandmother free divers, reveals impressive physiological and genetic adaptations. Capable of diving for hours in icy waters, they exhibit unique characteristics that allow them to survive and thrive in extreme conditions.
An Ancestral Tradition
The Haenyeo, just like the Japanese Ama from Nago Bay, dive barehanded, without tanks or assistance. Until the 1980s, they wore only simple cotton overalls, and they continue to dive according to well-established traditions on Jeju Island. Every morning, these women aged 60 to 90 head to their diving spots, carrying their gear on their backs. They adhere to strict rules for environmental preservation and marketing.
At a depth of ten meters, they make back-and-forth trips in the cold waters of the Sea of Japan, often swept by a biting wind. Their float balloons, true markers of their presence, allow them to surface to catch their breath, accompanied by a legendary airy whistle. They dive an average of five to six hours a day, three days a week, and sometimes rest in a « bulteok, » an ancient circular stone wall where a comforting fire warms them.

Comparison of Three Populations of Women
A study conducted by a team of researchers led by Melissa Ilardo from the University of Utah compared the physiological and genetic characteristics of thirty Haenyeo, thirty non-diving women from Jeju, and thirty urban women from Seoul. All these groups share an average age of 65 years. The participants simulated breath-hold dives to observe their physiological response, and their genomes were analyzed for significant differences.
Bradycardia and Cold Tolerance
During a cold water immersion, the heart rate slows down for everyone, but among the women from Jeju, even those who do not dive, this bradycardia is more pronounced. The Haenyeo, on the other hand, show a decrease in heart rate that can reach 40 beats per minute in less than 15 seconds. This ability seems to be more related to their training than to a genetic difference.
Genetic analyses revealed two significant variants in nearly one-third of the women from Jeju, compared to only 7% among those from the mainland. The first variant is associated with better cold tolerance, likely passed down through generations. The second variant concerns lower diastolic blood pressure, which could protect them from the effects of diving and preeclampsia during pregnancy. The Haenyeo, who have been diving since childhood and often until childbirth, may have thus favored these genetic adaptations.
An Intangible Cultural Heritage
Their culture has been inscribed in the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage since December 1, 2016, alongside the Japanese Ama. On Jeju Island, a museum is dedicated to them, and every year, a festival celebrates their heritage. The first Haenyeo were initiated at the age of seven and began diving at fifteen. In 1950, there were about thirty thousand, but today, there are only three thousand left, 80% of whom are over sixty years old.
Historically, free diving on Jeju dates back to the « Three Kingdoms » period (57 BC – 668), when pearls were highly prized. In the 19th century, to avoid heavy taxes imposed on men, women took over, thus creating a matriarchal society. Today, although dressed in neoprene and equipped with modern masks, they continue to dive in search of abalone, clams, sea cucumbers, conchs, sea urchins, octopuses, and seaweed.
Conclusion
Despite the decline in their numbers and the exodus of their descendants to large cities, these women continue to uphold a unique tradition. For them, diving is an immersion into a cultural and spiritual heritage, an eternal and regenerating plasma. Their existence is a testament to unparalleled resilience and strength, and each dive is a tribute to those who shaped their history.
This article, originally written by Sophie Greuil for our print edition, has been adapted for the web.